Aaah, Rome. Somewhere I’ve been dreaming of returning to, to ‘do properly’.
In September 2018 I was travelling around the South of Italy with my bestie Bec and just before heading home I made a quick solo trip to Rome. I read architecture at university and wrote my dissertation on Sir John Soane and his obsession with death (and ancient ruins) so it was kind of criminal I hadn’t been. I was only there for a couple of days, but it left a lasting impression.
Before we dive into a frankly fabulous guide on where to eat in Rome, would you indulge me in a little wander down memory lane? It feels important, because on that first visit, I had the absolute joy of being hosted by my friend - and food writer - Rachel Roddy. One of my favourite OG food bloggers, her recipes are the kind you turn to again and again: approachable, generous, and always spot-on.
Rachel had invited me to join a group doing a market tour and cooking class. It’s where I met the gorgeous Alice Adams Carosi who ran Latteria studio where we were welcomed back from the market with freshly baked Maritozzi buns and a bowl of whipped cream. We made pasta and focaccia, we fried courgette flowers, braised rabbit, roasted pumpkin and baked quince and hazelnut tart.
The whole day was what any food lover dreams of. Rachel then took me out for dinner with her husband and son, we ate so well. In one day I had eaten better in Rome than I had eaten in 2 weeks through Puglia, but hey, I didn’t have any tips on our Puglia trip, and Bec and I had as many misses as we had hits. That’s the whole point of this substack, getting us all in the know so you can experience the very best of where to eat.
Fast forward to May 2025 and we’re drinking negronis in Testaccio square with Rachel and pals. She walks my friend and I to dinner and we regroup the next night at a gig on the outskirts of the city. Rome is just how I remembered it. The following recommendations are not from Rachel or Alice, as they will have their own favourite places and if you do find yourself in Rome and want to book a tour/class with them, follow them on instagram and keep an eye out for dates. It’s an experience like no other.
Where to stay
On my first trip, I stayed just down the road from the Colosseum. I could see it from my balcony and honestly thought I’d hit the jackpot. But on the ground? It was too hectic for me.
This time, we stayed in Trastevere and it was perfect. Out of the main tourist crush but still full of life, with a lovely, slightly bohemian feel. (All the streets smell like jasmine right now).
Getting there from the airport was a breeze. Ubers are pricey, so we took the train and hopped on a quick bus. Next time to switch things up I might stay in Testaccio, one of Rome’s most characterful neighbourhoods. It’s authentic, lived-in, and still slightly under the radar compared to places like Trastevere. Once the city’s meatpacking district, it still carries that gritty charm, but now it’s filled with excellent trattorias, no-frills bars, and one of the best food markets. While I’m mentioning the market, do go! It’s a produce market but here are plenty of stalls cooking up fresh food and there are plenty of tables to sit at. Head to Morde e Vai for a sandwich or Casa Manco for pizza.
Eating in Rome
A few things:
Menus follow a structure. Antipasti (starters), primi (usually pasta or risotto), secondi (meat or fish), contorni (sides), and dolci (desserts). You don’t need to order one of each, mix and match as you like.
Tipping isn’t expected, but it’s appreciated. In Rome, service is usually included, so you’re not obliged to tip, but leaving a couple of euros or rounding up the bill is a nice gesture if the service was good.
Not everywhere opens on Sunday, so if there's somewhere you're dying to try, save it for earlier in the weekend. If there’s somewhere open on a Sunday, save it for Sunday. (I would book Ristorante al Pompiere for Sunday lunch, for example.)
If you order a plate of pasta to share between two people, they divide one portion onto separate plates for you - no need to go full Lady and the Tramp over a single bowl.
Aperitivo is a cherished Italian ritual - an early evening pause for a drink paired with a few salty snacks, all designed to whet the appetite and ease you gently into the night…so when booking a restaurant maybe err on the side of a later reservation and get that snacky drink in first.
Summer openings - if you’re visiting in peak season, check these spots are open and not closed for holidays.
Head to the centre for the sights, not for the food. Think of it like Covent Garden in London - plenty to look at, but too many restaurants catering to tourists. Don’t be fooled by the checkered tablecloths and twinkly fairy lights, even when you’re feeling weary and think anything will do, don’t do it.
Rome’s tap water is not just safe, it’s really good. The city’s water comes from natural springs in the mountains, and you’ll see little fountains all over town (called nasoni) where you can fill up for free.
Eat your greens! You’ll see cicoria ripassata on almost every menu. Bitter greens (usually chicory) that have been blanched, then sautéed with garlic, olive oil, and sometimes a hit of chilli. Slightly wild-tasting, and deeply comforting.
Savoury snacks, delis & picky bits
Supplì Roma
We found this place on google maps when riding the bus in from the airport and searching for something for me to eat near the apartment because I was ravenous. It was the perfect bite to take the edge off before dinner.
Supplì are Rome's answer to arancini—crispy rice balls that are usually stuffed with mozzarella, though the cacio e pepe version here was absolutely perfect. Honestly, you can't go wrong with any of them, we even tried a cacio e pepe version with candied lemon. Amazing. Don't miss the mozzarella en carrozza either—basically a cheese toastie that's been breaded and fried. Some of you may remember me making a version in tomato sauce during lockdown, hundreds of you made it and I thought it would be fun to do an insta live cheese pull, but reader: I was too hungry.
Fun fact: it's called carrozza (carriage) because when you pull the cheese apart, it supposedly looks like the reins of a carriage. Bit of a stretch, but we love the romanticism.
Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina
An institution. This place feels small and vast at the same time? In 1950, 11 brothers and cousins from the Roscioli family moved to Rome from the tiny town of Rocca di Montemonaco. They all became bakers, laying the foundation for what would become a culinary empire! I would say this place is a must visit but you don’t have to do a whole meal here. This is casual kind of place where you can perch at the bar or sit out the front watching the world go by, either ordering food from the menu or treats from the deli counter. Everything here is of exceptional quality. There are over 150 varieties of salumi, more than 350 cheeses and the wine list is excellent. I am gutted we’re not allowed to bring back meat or dairy from the EU anymore but there are plenty of other items and top merch to pick up here.
Sinopoli Riccardo
I only noticed this place behind the mopeds because a man was up a step ladder painting the glass signage and it caught my eye. On closer inspection, the paintwork portrayed a smiling piggy. We went in search of the pig, (a parcel of porchetta to take home) and discovered they make their own pork jerky too - apparently this is a Roman thing, who knew? Delicious btw, I just fell into a google rabbit hole, if you’re interested in this tasty snack the romans have kept for themselves, read more here. The guy behind the counter sliced our porchetta with the same cack handed precision Kendall Jenner uses to cut a cucumber (if you know, you know) but it was all part of the charm of the place. They even have a dedicated sink just for washing salt cod.
Antica Caciara Trasteverina
A heaving Roman deli with a salami fridge. The kind of shop that makes you weep for a whole wheel of pecorino to take home. Maybe just grab a bag or two of pasta.
Pizza
Eating pizza in this city is fun. Pizza al Taglio (by the slice) is Rome's favourite street snack. These rectangular pizzas are baked in large trays and sold by weight, cut to order with scissors. You eat them standing, walking, perched on a wall..whatever works. Choosing and sharing slices is the fun bit, toppings range from courgette (zucchini) flowers and anchovies to potato and rosemary. Try a slice of pizza bianca.
Pizzarium Bonci (Near the Vatican) – cult favourite, wildly inventive toppings. Go early to beat mad queues.
CasaManco (Testaccio Market) – creative but not too fussy
Forno Campo de' Fiori – old-school Roman bakery with a loyal following. Get the mortadella!
Coffee
Romans tend to switch to espresso after breakfast and always drink it standing at the bar, quickly and without ceremony. So we did as the Romans do and only sat with our cappuccinos first thing.
Caffè Sant'Eustachio
Quite a few people recommended this spot to me, and while it leaned a little touristy for my taste, I wouldn’t tell you not to go. The coffee is very good, and while I didn’t spot many Italians sipping it in, we did see plenty of locals stopping by to buy bags of beans to take home, which says something. Just a heads-up: the menu says €3.50 for a coffee, but if you sit outside, the price almost doubles!
Bar San Calisto This place was round the corner from where we were staying in Trastevere. Super affordable, regulars playing cards outside. Ideal for people-watching and soaking up real neighbourhood life. If you’re going in colder months, get the hot chocolate. Open early til late.
Tazza D’Oro A traditional espresso bar near the Pantheon. Pay first before you order and take the receipt to the coffee bar to be served. This place is famous for its granita di caffè. A coffee granita layered with cream, perfect on a hot day or for the ticket queue at the Pantheon. (You can buy tickets on the day btw, outside)