WHAT TO EAT IN LISBON
because you can't just eat custard tarts.
It was raining when I arrived in Lisbon, and in a moment of sleep-deprived idiocy, I slipped my wallet in my paper shopping bag that I then promptly threw away when the bag became soggy and detached at the handles. I rushed back in a panic a whole hour later to where the bag had broken to see if by some miracle my wallet might still be on the ground, only to find someone had rescued it and tucked it neatly at the back of an electricity box. That moment pretty much sums up Lisbon for me – a bit chaotic, sometimes challenging, but ultimately anchored by the warmth of its people.
The first time I ever visited Lisbon, I was in my twenties and we drove over from Spain. We booked a food tour and our guide greeted us with: "Oh, you live in Spain? Well, welcome to Portugal, where you can actually drink decent coffee and eat good bread!" The cheek! (the truth…)! But beyond the coffee and bread, what really struck me then, and still does, were the similarities with Spain. The deep-rooted respect for tradition, handwritten menus taped inside the windows of no-frills tascas, that buzzy hum of locals in conversation, the gentle clatter of cutlery on well worn tables. Plates arrived without ceremony but full of soul. The kind of service that’s unfussy but instinctively attentive. I felt instantly at home.
So much has changed since that first visit. Lisbon’s food scene has exploded, with new openings seemingly every week. What was once a city known mostly for its simple, honest fare has become a playground for chefs reimagining Portuguese cooking with boldness and flair. Over the years, I’ve watched humble tascas turn into destination restaurants, and once-sleepy neighbourhoods evolve into vibrant hubs for food lovers.
But don't worry, you can still find the classics. They're just sharing space with the new.
What is a tasca?
In Portugal, a tasca is a traditional restaurant, often family-run, where locals eat daily, especially at lunch, and enjoy affordable, hearty Portuguese food. A bit like a Spanish venta - unpretentious, authentic, and the perfect window into everyday local life.
But like many things in Lisbon, the traditional tasca is evolving. You'll find both old-school establishments where time seems to have stood still since the 1950s, and modern interpretations that honour tradition while reimagining the menu. I love both, there's room for both but sadly the new feels like it’s taking over and a lot of neighbourhood spots are closing. Having said that, I’ve visited more traditional spots on previous visits and I thought I would concentrate on the new openings for the newsletter. Also read - I needed an excuse to visit again.
When to visit
Unlike some of my other travel spots, Lisbon seems to be a year-round destination. Spring and autumn probably offer the perfect balance - warm days, cool evenings, and fewer crowds than summer (no queue for bifanas).
I went in mid April and found the weather perfect for long walks up and down those infamous hills, with just enough sunshine to warrant frequent ice cream stops. The occasional rain shower just gave me an excuse to duck into yet another pastelaria or church.
Neighbourhoods to explore
Lisbon rewards you for lingering. Sure, it makes a great base for day trips and I’ve taken a few on past visits but honestly, if you’re only there for a long weekend, I’d really suggest getting out the centre and getting to know a new neighbourhood instead.
Graça sits just above the centre, with sloping cobbled streets and tucked-away viewpoints. Miradouro da Graça, just by the Igreja da Graça, is where people gather with a drink and a snack as the afternoon rolls on, but head to Senhora do Monte for sunset. Alfama, is the oldest district in Lisbon, with beautiful winding streets and tiled facades. A bit touristy these days, but still full of soul if you wander off the main drag. A little further out, Campo de Ourique is all leafy charm and local bakeries, Estrela offers quiet grandeur and one of the city’s prettiest parks, and Alcântara is where creatives gather at LX Factory but to me it feels a bit mainstream these days.. If you’re feeling more adventurous, head east to Marvila. It’s one of Lisbon’s most intriguing up-and-coming neighbourhoods a mix of warehouses and industrial relics, (once the city’s manufacturing heart) it’s now slowly being reclaimed by artists, brewers, and restaurateurs. It sits along the river between the city centre and Parque das Nações.
São Vicente - This historic area is home to some amazing tascas and has a more local feel than the touristy centre. It's where I found some of my favourite food spots (below), hidden on streets that don't make it into most guidebooks.
Shall we crack on to WHERE TO EAT? Where to drink? What to order? What to bring home?
Let’s say you’ve got a few days and, like me, you want to make the most of every bite and sip. I’ve put together my favourite spots to drink, snack, and settle in. Enough to mix and match, and maybe even fit in a couple of spots per mealtime if you’re up for it?
Also, I beg you to make reservations if you’re going at a busy time of year. I had a lot of luck with my spots but I also turned up solo to a lot of them and was happy to squeeze in between people and be quick.