WHAT TO EAT IN BERLIN
Hand-pulled noodles, Späti beers & Yemeni feasts - By Rez Rahman
I’d like to start today’s newsletter with a big thank you to each and every one of you who has subscribed to When in Rome. And an even bigger thank you to all paid subscribers - your support has made it possible for me to commission my very first guest post!
This is exactly what I envisioned: bringing friends together from around the world to share their insider knowledge, hidden gems, and top tips for first-time travellers. Or second-time travellers, like me - because after reading today’s post, I’m already dreaming about getting back to Berlin.
My friend Rez (@roti.mamiii) is a chef and food stylist who moved to Berlin from East London four years ago. I absolutely adore her Substack (Rezervations), where she writes beautifully and candidly from the heart about her solo travels. With those adventures comes stories, and as a single woman who also travels the world somewhat spontaneously but meaningfully, I find her reflections heartfelt, relatable and inspiring.
She's also the force behind the Bengali pop-up Roti Mami – if you're in the US, you might be in luck because she's heading there very soon (Brooklyn, 21st, 27th April & 4th May; Houston, 8th & 9th May; Nashville, 11th & 12th May).
Over to Rez, enjoy!
Milli x
WHAT TO EAT IN BERLIN
Berlin's a hard city to pin down - full of contrasts with a gritty but somehow sexy vibe that doesn't feel like your typical capital. After nearly four years of living here, I've watched it become more polished in some corners while staying deliciously rough around others.
I moved out here to work as a food stylist for a major global brand and over time, I’ve naturally become the go-to friend for food recommendations. Outside of the food scene, one of the things I love most about Berlin is how open it feels. Summers are amazing, people are out by the lakes with a beer in hand, the party scene is, well, iconic? And because it’s such a transient city, there’s a constant flow of people from everywhere bringing their own stories and flavours.
So, without further ado, let me tell you about some of my top picks:
Jemenitisches Restaurant (‘Yemeni restaurant’)
Yes, that's literally what it's called! There are two locations – bustling Neukölln or quieter Moabit.
For the full experience, go to Neukölln. The neighbourhood buzzes with energy – fruit markets, chaotic streets, and an atmosphere that somehow makes everything taste better. Both serve the same incredible food though, so you really can't go wrong.
Must-orders:
Sambosa mit Käse – Super crispy cheese samosas, totally addictive. They come with sahawiq, a Yemeni tomato-chilli salsa.
Saltah – Widely considered Yemen's national dish. The base is a rich meat stew called maraq. It usually comes with rice, potatoes, eggs and vegetables.
Chicken Mandi – Served wrapped in foil and paper, the chicken is so tender it practically falls off the bone. It's beautifully spiced and comes on a bed of fragrant rice.
Fahsa – Another must-try. A bubbling hot lamb stew made with tender lamb in a rich, spiced broth.
Tandoor Fish – Ideal for sharing. If you're with a group and in the mood for seafood, this is a standout.
Finish with a Yemeni tea. Nothing fancy about the place itself – but the food? Always spectacular.
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