WHAT TO EAT IN AMSTERDAM

Stroopwafels, electric boats, vending machine kroketten, and the best dirty martini in the city

I am feeling overjoyed right now, to publish my second guest substack from someone who’s cooking and style I really admire and who really knows his stuff when it comes to eating out. Jimmy has been living in Amsterdam for 6 years and I haven’t been in 20? so I am excited to use this guide myself for when I make my next visit. He’s gone IN for us and I couldn’t be more thrilled because like me, he has a More is More/ When in Rome approach to travelling, so if you only manage half of these spots on a weekend break I would say you’ve done well! Over to J.

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Hey, I’m Jimmy - a graphic designer by day and full-time food obsessive the rest of the time. Whether I’m eating my way around Amsterdam, planning trips purely around what I want to eat, or cooking up a feast at home, food is always at the heart of it. I inherited my love of epic spreads from my late Irish mum, she taught me there’s no such thing as too much when it comes to food, which I apply to all things on this subject.

My job brought me from London to Amsterdam for what was supposed to be a three-month stint, but I fell hard for this city and it’s become home for almost six years. Since then, the food scene has exploded in the best way. It’s constantly evolving, full of hidden gems and exciting new spots, and I can’t wait to share some of my favourites with you.

Dutch classics like potato & kale stamppot, snert (split pea soup with smoked sausage), Kibbeling and kroketten are still the backbone of the cuisine here and can be found all around the city in its cafes and late night snack bars, sitting alongside Surinamese takeaways and Indonesian spots.

For the bulk of its restaurant cuisine, the Dutch have looked to their close neighbours so you’ll notice a strong French influence in the long standing Amsterdam institutions that I visit again and again. But alongside these there is a constant wave of new openings by young chefs doing playful modern takes on European cooking with a vibrant mix of global cuisines.

It’s a very relaxed city, even in a Michelin star restaurant you’ll never feel underdressed. Amsterdam has a laid-back charm and an easygoing personality that makes living here very special, and visiting such a joy. It’s really just a village disguised as a bustling metropolis.

Before we get into the food, a few tips for your visit. Spring and summer are an ideal time to visit because the city thrives in the sunshine. Autumn and winter are also pretty magic, as we shift into the cosy brown bar season. Whenever you visit, it’s likely you’ll experience all four seasons in one day, so come prepared to embrace the elements.

Getting around Amsterdam is fairly simple, as the whole city is quite walkable. There are trams and a metro, but renting a bike will let you experience it like a local. Additionally, for an ideal afternoon, hire a little Mokumboot or Sloepdelen, pack some cheese, bread, and a bottle of bubbles, and explore the city from the water. It’s the most magical way to see it.

Saturday at the Noordermarkt

I’m starting this guide how I always start my Saturdays, swinging by the two markets in my neighborhood the Jordaan. The markets stretch from the Lindengracht to the fancier Noordermarkt, selling a mix of pretty much anything you could imagine, but it’s a great place to also sample some key Amsterdam staples, so I always bring visiting friends here.

After a coffee at the Jordaan icon Brunos, start strong with fresh oysters on the bougie side of the Nordamarkt. Next, head to my favourite fish stall at the north end of the Lindengracht to try Kibberling, fried chunks of battered fish with tartar sauce. For the brave, order herring with onion or my personal favourite, a paling broodje (smoked eel in a sweet white roll).

Heading south, you’ll find classics like Stroopwafels & Poffertjes, cheese to take home and right at the end, a small selection of food stalls where you must try some Indonesian food at Sata Bar Charley.

Borrel at a Brown Bar

You could say brown bars are the equivalent of the classic British pub - but the experience of them is enriched by the Dutch having mastered the art of tipsy snacking.